> Days after days > August : La compagnie des Guides de Chamonix - version française

20 August: Aiguille de la République. After a modern style route it’s important to also do a grand classic as well as a summit and live the
adventure by imagining how it was done a hundred or so years ago wearing heavy nailed boots and with a hemp rope tied around the waist !


Ruby red sunrise behind
the Aiguille Verte.


The first part as far as
the breach : quickly
up difficulty 4 !


The summit: where you
see how steep and
exposed you are !


The final pitch. No need
for a crossbow as there
are bolts instead !

Summit of the Aiguille de la
République.
Between the Chamonix valley
and the Mer de Glace.
A moment’s respite !

Photos : Y. Delevaux

19 August : Bienvenue au Georges V. A magnificent modern route at l’envers des Aiguilles (Pointe des Nantillons).
A 5/5+ (French) climb on fabulous granite on a balcony at the Mer de Glace.


A magnificent and technical climb.


Far from the spur at the Envers
des Aiguilles mountain hut.

The summit. The view of the north side
of the Dent du Requin is breathtaking.
Photos : Y. Delevaux

12-15 August : Chamonix Guide Festival. Chamonix celebrated by its guides. Convivial, festive and traditional, the Fête des Guides always stirs up emotions.
Check out the photos resuming the four days of festivities !


The 12th August: start of the festival with the
Fete du Pain in Lavancher.


The 13th August: In Les Houches the local guides
offer drinks and a film projection.


The 14th August: In Argentière the official ceremony
starts although the ambiance remains convivial.


Light and sound spectacle at the rock face
of Les Gaillands.
Staring the guides.


The closing element of the show: a firework
display followed by music !

The morning of 15th August: the official
ceremony, full of emotion, here
with the guide choir.

11 August: Poème à Lou, the Brevent. Climbing on the south-east face of the Brevent. Five good pitches of 6a and 6b (French).
Very steep, requiring precise movements, making this one of the most beautiful and demanding routes in the Aiguille Rouges .


Precise feet movements are essential.


Exceptionally steep.

The ambiance of a grand route !
Photos : E. Favret

8 August: The Petite Verte. . A very pretty initiation climb into the higher altitudes. Ideal for this unsettled weather !
Formally an all snow climb, it now presents numerous mixed and rock passages.


Patrick and Bertrand on the approach
in front of Le Chardonnet.


A lot of snow for the month of August.

The summit, in front of the Nant-Blanc
side of the Verte.
Photos : D. Lavigne

6 August: ‘La Plage’ route on the lower part of le Grande Floria. As its name suggests, this is a lovely little introductory course to climbing, on the sunny side !


Delicate climbing for Elise


A view you never tire of seeing

A bit further before its time for the sandwich !
Photos : E. Favret

4 & 5 August: Aiguille Verte; The Grands Montets ridge. A majestic and prestigious summit, the Verte is every alpinist’s dream.
To do it by one of its ridges guarantees an extraordinary voyage and is surely one of the highlights in a mountaineer’s achievements.


The first part, up to the Pointe Farrar


The couloir behind the Tour Carré is
usually dangerous because it’s dry !

A traverse above the clouds towards
the Pointes Ségognes

The Nant-Blanc col, an impressive
view for the bivouac.


The dome of the Verte under a red sky.
Good weather for tomorrow.


At daylight, Mont-Blanc on the left and the
shadow of our summit in front of us.

Descending towards the Grande Rocheuse col,
before the legendary Whymper..
Photos : Y. Delevaux

4 August : Petit Clocher de Portalet (SE ridge). Lovely, elegant climb on an impressive summit cut with a knife.


Sunrise on the day’s project !


Nothing like good layback
technique to wake you up !

An athletic 5/6b+ (French) climb ...

...at a steady pace, for a pleasing result !
Photos : Y. Mansart

3 August: Aiguille de la Varappe in the Aiguilles Dorées (Eole route) . On the eastern edge of the Mont-Blanc massif in the Aiguilles Dorées.


Sunrise on the Trient plateau.


Varied and continuous climbing ...

... on exceptional granite.
Photos : Y. Mansart

2 August : North Face of Aiguille du Plan. A grand classic of some scope, this itinerary is fulfilling by its variety (rock, snow and ice).
The seracs of the upper glacier often make this ascent complicated if not impossible. A question of timing yet again !


Daybreak ...


End of the rock climb on the
shoulder of les cornichons.

The glacier is severe to start with ...


... then more welcoming to
arrive at Aiguille du Plan.
Photos : J. Herry

1 August : The Gallet ridge at Mont Dolent.A prestigious summit with the unusual trait of being on the intersection of three countries
(France, Italy and Switzerland).A beautiful ascent with a difficult last section.


The majestic summit as
seen from the Argentière glacier.


After an easy start,
the calves start hurting !

Ambiance guaranteed on the
face of this huge glacier.


Pure magic for
Bernard on the summit !

Photos : D. Lavigne
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