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Is it true that climbing Mont-Blanc is easy ? 2. I have never worn crampons but I am very ‘sporty’, can I hire a guide to do Mont-Blanc ? 3. What is the minimum experience required before hiring a guide for Mont-Blanc ? 4. We are a group of three wishing to do Mont-Blanc, one of us is experienced; do we have to take two guides or just one ? 5. Physical training should we undertake before attempting Mont-Blanc ? 6. At what age can children attempt Mont-Blanc ? 7. What is the oldest you can be to attempt Mont-Blanc ? 8. What are the two classic routes to climb Mont-Blanc ? 9. What is the difference between the Traverse of Mont-Blanc and the Classic Route ? 10. What equipment is required ? |
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1. Is it true that climbing Mont-Blanc is easy ? No. It is mountaineering in altitude. Technically : There are often passages where you have to use your hands in order to advance. It is never a simple question of following a footpath! You will have to do some basic climbing on rocks which requires the use of your hands; you will have to walk with crampons on hard snow and on ice when it is steep and where a sudden fall must be controlled immediately. This requires basic technical knowledge of how to walk with crampons for example, particularly for the descent when the body is tired. Physically : The ascent is very long, lasting two days with a ‘short’ night in a mountain refuge. The descent is no easier as you then have to cope with the fatigue. On top of that you must consider the altitude where the light air pressure increases the physical exertion. Finally, there are the weather conditions on the summit to take into account (the cold and frequent wind) which also takes up valuable energy. 2. I have never worn crampons but I am very ‘sporty’, can I hire a guide to do Mont-Blanc ? No : Here at the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix we do not take people with no mountaineering experience to Mont-Blanc. You would be best advised to undertake a special 5 day training course which is an ideal way to gain the necessary experience. 3. What is the minimum experience required before hiring a guide for Mont-Blanc ? Ideally, you should have recently finished a course which involves wearing crampons eg. Tour Ronde, Aiguille du Tour, Aiguille de la Bérangère, Grand Paradis, Col du Tour, Les 3 Cols... In any case you will be required to have crampon experience at the very least involving ice-climbing school experience within the last two years 4. We are a group of three wishing to do Mont-Blanc, one of us is experienced; do we have to take two guides or just one ? At the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix our work norms are very strict so with people who we have never taken up into the mountains, each guide for Mont-Blanc takes only two people maximum on his rope party. On top of that, we do not take autonomous roped parties. Therefore, for a group of three people you will need two mountain guides. 5. What physical training should we undertake before attempting Mont-Blanc ? The base for good physical preparation is a very good fundamental training programme. That means practicing an endurance sport for at least six months before attempting the ascent. For example, running or cycling in the months leading up to the attempt (good, steady and regular training). The week or fortnight before the ascent, you should ideally go on two or three long hikes of 4-5 hours in mid-altitude with each hike taking in 800-1000m of acclivity, and at least one outing at an altitude of over 3500m the days leading up to the ascent. After a short rest to recover, you should have the physical reserves necessary for the ascent. 6. At what age can children attempt Mont-Blanc ? Teenagers as young as 16 might be able to undertake an attempt but only if they are used to doing lots of sport and if they are extremely motivated. Perhaps it would be more prudent to start with a lower summit to help improve their technique ? 7. What is the oldest you can be to attempt Mont-Blanc ? We have taken people as old as 70 to the summit but they were particularly fit and already lived in the mountains. 8. What are the two classic routes to climb Mont-Blanc ? Trois Mont-Blanc traverse : Leaving from the Aiguille du Midi you will pass the night in the Cosmiques mountain refuge (3613m), adding only 30 minutes descent to the following morning. On the day of the ascent you will firstly climb Mont-Blanc du Tacul (passage by the épaule du Tacul), Mont Maudit (steep passage to reach the shoulder) then on to the Col de la Brenva, the Mur de la Côte and finally the summit of Mont-Blanc. Depending on conditions and the level of fatigue, you will descend by either: the way you came up, the ‘classic’ route or the Grands Mulets. The Classic Route : Leaving from Nid d’Aigle (the TMB train stops at 2317m) you will climb up by the footpath to Tête Rousse, then up to the Aiguille du Goûter before arriving at the mountain refuge (3817m). This normally takes between 4-5 hours. On the second day, the ascent of Mont-Blanc will start with the Dôme du Goûter, the refuge Vallot (bivouac), the arête des bosses and then the summit. The descent, as with the traverse, can be by either of three routes but in the large majority of cases, when the ascent is made by the classic route, the descent is also by the classic route. 9. What is the difference between the Traverse of Mont-Blanc and the Classic Route ? The traverse of Mont-Blanc means that the first day is more ‘debonair’ and the mountain refuge is a little lower in altitude giving a slightly better night’s sleep. However, the ascent between the mountain refuge and the summit is much longer (approx. 1 ½ hours longer) and more technical. 10. What equipment is required ? Here is the list of equipment required for Mont-Blanc (this is also valid for other classic mountaineering courses over 4000m): You are advised to wear successive layers of clothing which will allow you to adapt to the conditions. Warm clothing: over-trousers with a hooded and suitably adapted jacket, polar fleeces, proper mountaineering underwear (t-shirt and bottoms), warm bonnet, good quality gloves or mittens, warm socks, gaiters. Glacier sunglasses and ski goggles. Water bottle, head lamp, sun cream. Very good mountaineering boots (rigid soles) which do not squeeze the feet (leather is advised) and anti-bottes (anti-balling device). Crampons and ice-axe, helmet (this can be hired in most sport shops). During the day of preparation your guide will advise
you exactly what to take depending on the weather conditions. |
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