Mountaineering
in Peru
| Place
: Huaraz, Cordillera
Blanca
Length : 26 days
"Philosopy"
: Découvrir et
Grimper au Pérou dans la cordillère des Andes.Faire
de "l'alpinisme" avec des camps "avancés"
( 2 à 3 jours max hors du camp de base) et
sur des sommets de 6000 mètres
Dates : du
27 mai 2008 au 21 juin 2008
Price : 5700 euros par
personne.
Price Includes :
- Transportation in Peru
- Accommodation and meals for the length of the trip except
in LIMA( lodging in a house in Huaraz – 2 people per room
plus hotel in Lima)
- Porters, mules et cooks for base camp
- 1 UIAGM certified guide per 2 people.
The price does not include personal equipment, drinks, and incidentals.
|
The Peru and Huaraz place.
The Huascaran 6768m is the highest point of this country. |
Description
:
The Chavin
(Ancash) region in Huaraz :
The
Chavin region gets its name from the pre-Incan civilization that occupied
the area. It consists primarily of high Andean plateaus sometimes referred
to as altiplano. Situated in the Northern Andes the area covers more than
35000 square kilometers (21700sq.miles). Huaraz, the capital is located
between the Negra (black) mountain range and the Blanca (white) range.
Between these two mountain ranges is the river Rio Santa, also known as
the Holy River, which over time created the valley known as Callejon de
Huaylas. The border between the Blanca and Negra ranges is filled with
natural richness: fertile soil, water, and minerals. These natural resources
are also found on the hillsides of the Negra range, which have been ravaged
by mining exploitations over the last several years.
The region has witnessed many natural upheavals. The last one dating to
1970 where an earthquake destroyed 80% of the dwellings and claimed 100,000
victims. Erased definitively from all topographic maps, the village of
Yungay was rebuilt 1kilometer downstream from its original location.
The land in this area forms a natural break from the desert zones with
the Amazon being found to the East. Road axes join these two zones .
Artesonjaru 6025m or 5999m changing with maps !
|
Back
to the capital of the region: Huaraz.
Huaraz has a population of 130,000 inhabitants and is often
called the “Chamonix of the Andes”. In the city
center there is a guide office, good restaurants both typical
and foreign cuisine, nightclubs, shopping, a hospital, etc.
It is located at 3052meters. On a clear sunny morning from certain
parts of town, streets or hotels there are views of the Huascarans,
the Huandoys, the Vallunaraju or other peaks bordering the hillsides
of the Eastern valley of Callejon de Huaylas .
The
Cordillera Blanca (White Range).
A white mountain range
that is stretched over 180km (110miles) in length, and 20km
(12miles) wide with over 300 peaks, 50 of which are over 5700meters
and 32 are over 6000meters high! The base camps and treks are
spectacular because of the presence of lagoons each more blue,
more clear and more beautiful than the last. It’s a seventh
heaven for mountaineers because of the numerous choices of peaks
to climb with relatively quick accessibility (2 to 3 days at
most from Huaraz), and routes for all ability levels. It’s
a complete ‘culture’ shock and also an exceptional
occasion to climb mountains that are higher in altitude compared
to those in the Alps.
|
| Itinerary
: The
Cordillera Blanca contains a multitude of peaks that are very
attractive to mountaineers. Some of them are known world-wide
and attract lots of climbers, while others less visible from the
valleys are hardly ever attempted. The fact that we have our ‘base
camp’ in Huaraz allows us to adapt to the conditions in
the mountains and eventually modify our objectives. This is why
the itinerary below is only a suggestion and could be modified
according to personal goals, weather conditions, etc…
The
trip could be broken down into 2 parts :
• an easy acclimatization on peaks which are not too technical
allow our bodies to get used to functioning at altitude ( peaks
between 5500 – 5900meters) with the ascent, for example,
of Murujaru 5688meters, Garcilaso Pyramid 5885m…..
• once acclimated we attempt higher more technical summits
around 6000meters: Artesonraju 6025m, Ranrapalca 6125m
The
choice of peaks is ‘open to discussion’ and is a ‘last
minute’ decision that we can make together based on mountain
conditions, weather, and us !
|
Ranrapalca
(6125 mètres) |
Liste
du materiel personnel à prévoir :
Personal
Gear :
1 sleeping bag (-20 degrees
Celsius)
1 comfortable sleeping mat
1 lightweight sleeping mat for altitude camps
1 beanie and ‘cagoule’
2 pairs of sunglasses ( protection 4)
1 ski mask
1 down jacket
1 Gore Tex outfit (jacket, pants)
2 pairs of gloves (1 light/1warm)
1 pair of glove liners
2 pairs of thermal base layers
X pairs of socks (mountain and city)
X city clothes
|
Technical
Gear :
1 harness
1 pair of crampons
2 technical ice axes
1 pair of winter shoes (hard shell recommended, gaiters)
1 sling for self belaying
3 locking carabiners
1 prusik/automatic blocker
2 ice screws
1 helmet
1 braking device
1 headlamp with batteries |
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