The Monte Rosa Massif, straddling the Italian Valle d'Aosta and the Swiss Valais, is a must-see destination for altitude enthusiasts. A combination of a dozen peaks over 4000m and majestic glaciers made easy to access by a set of high-perched refuges.
In the heart of the Monte Rosa Massif, the proposed program will allow you to enjoy a typical glacial atmosphere and breathtaking views of the Alpine arc. In four days, you will climb numerous 4000’s, including Castor and Pointe Zumstein. Several passages, including the Naso du Lyskamm, require knowledge of basic mountaineering techniques. Therefore, this program is specifically for people with previous mountaineering experience.
Day 1: Ascent to the Quintino Sella refuge
Transfer from Chamonix to Val Gressoney in Italy via the Mont Blanc tunnel. Departure from the village of Stafal (1,825m). We will take the ski lifts to Col de Bettaforca (2,672m). Our ascent takes us along the Pointe Bettolina then the ridge, the most aerial part of which is equipped with cables and walkways. Our first day finishes when we arrive at the Quintino Sella hut (3585m). Night at the refuge.
Elevation gain: 913m
Day 2: Crossing the Lys Glacier by the Lyskamm "Naso"
We once again climb the Glacier Felik which we quickly leave to join the Glacier du Lys. We follow the imposing south face of the Lyskamm (4,532m) to the foot of the Naso (4,272m), the summit is reached by a steep slope (45 °) which contains numerous ice sections. We then descend to an altitude of 4000m via a new slope; starting steep, it gradually levels out and leads us to the Gniffeti refuge (3625m). Night at the refuge.
Elevation gain: 687m – Elevation drop: 647m
Day 3: Ascent of Pointe Zumstein
We gently climb the Glacier du Lys until we reach the Col du Lys (4,152m) which marks our entry onto the Zermatt side of the Monte Rosa Massif. We pass nearby the Cabane Margherita (highest refuge in Europe: 4,554m !) to reach the Col Gnifetti (4,455m) from where we take the comfortable south-eastern ridge of Pointe Zumstein to the summit (4 563m). We descend by the same route to the refuge and then to the ski lifts near Pointe Indren (3,258m) which bring us peacefully back to Stafal. Return to Chamonix in the middle of the afternoon.
Elevation gain: 938m - Elevation drop: 1305m
This programme is meant as a guide only. Depending on the abilities of the group and the conditions in the mountains, your mountain guide may alter the route.
Group session associates several people who don’t know each other. It allows for a planned program to benefit from an attractive price on fixed dates. This formula is ideal for people looking for the friendliness of a group.
Dates 2021: Monday to Wednesday. From the end of June to the end of September.
Price 2021: 725€ per person based on minimum of 3 participants.
Included in the package:
- IFMGA English speaking mountain guiding service,
- 2 Half-board in moutain hut (dinner, breakfast and night),
- Transfers as per programme,
- Personal drinks and other personal expenses (we recommend you bring Euros),
- Take out lunches and daily snacks,
- Cost of getting to meeting point,
- Personal technical equipment including your mountaineering shoes.
Private hiring is the historical relationship that binds a guide to his/her client. It allows you to be alone, or in a constituted group, with your guide that meets your specific needs. It is undoubtedly the ideal formula to realize your projects because it guarantees you a maximum of comfort. You are free to choose your departure date (depending on the availability of the huts) and the itinerary can be adjusted, according to your specific expectations.
Prices 2021 :
2 people : 1045€ per person
3 people: 780€ per person
4 people: 645€ per person
In this section, find all the information about this activity. For further information, contact our advisor (contact details above)
Meeting and transport: Meet at 08.30am at the Chamonix Guides Company: 190 place de l’église.
Ability level: A successful trip largely depends on how fit you are. Regular sport practice, enhanced with a strenuous activity during the months preceding the trip are a promise of success. Last minute intense training results in increasing exhaustion during the trip. The effects of altitude and the weight of your pack will increase difficulty and therefore tiredness. We strongly recommend you arrive in Chamonix well-rested, well-prepared and equipped adequately in order to enjoy our mountainous surroundings at best.
For people who regularly exercise/take part in sports. Eight to ten hours of exercise per day. A mountaineering experience is necessary.
Guiding policy: 3 to 4 people. The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix's guiding policy is one of the strictest in the mountain guiding business. It guarantees the most balanced groups as possible as well as high-quality personalised advice.
Accommodation: 2 nights in huts with dinner & breakfast.
Documentation: Participants must have mountain sports insurance with repatriation cover. We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover. You can take out insurance offering both of these types of cover when you sign up. Participants must also take valid ID with them.
Organization:The week before your departure, the guide in charge of the group will contact you to answer all your questions.
We recommend you take particular care over you choice of equipment, as it plays a large role in the success of your trip. Weight is critical, and you must always evaluate the weight-to-comfort ratio to find the best compromise.
Weather conditions can be extremely variable: from 20ºC on the approach route to the hut, to -15ºC on the summit (like a cold winter’s day in a ski resort).
Generally speaking, it is better to put on several thin layers than to have one bulky item of warm clothing, and it is vital that you remain dry at all times.
- 35-litre backpack
- High-altitude mountaineering boots that are not too tight
- Gaiters, if needed for your trousers
- Telescopic trekking poles
- Crampons with anti-balling plates; helmet, harness and straight ice axe
- Warm hat that can be worn under a helmet
- Sun hat or cap
- Neck protection such as a ‘Buff’
- ‘Micro-fibre’ style long-sleeve base layer
- ‘Gore Tex’ style shell jacket with hood
- Down jacket
- Base layer leggings
- Durable summer mountaineering trousers (not ski trousers)
- ‘Gore Tex’ style over-trousers
- Warm specialist walking socks
- Lightweight specialist walking socks
- Ski gloves or good quality mitts
- Leather or fleece gloves
- Change of clothes at your discretion
- Category 4 sunglasses
- Ski goggles
- Headtorch plus spare batteries
- Sheet sleeping bag
- Water bottle (minimum 1.5l) and thermos bottle
- Personalised first aid kit with a minimum of: sun cream, lip balm, cotton buds, blister kit, antisickness medication
- Watertight bag to contain your ID/passport and Euros
Rental : You can rent your equipment with our partners Sanglard Sports & Ravanel & Co, and benefit from special prices.
A 10€ discount voucher coming from the shop Au Vieux Campeur will be given to the first 500 clients from the ‘Cie des Guides’ (voucher to be collected at our office). Closest shop ‘Au Vieux Campeur’ : Sallanches.
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