The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true.
The Eiger occupies a unique place among the legendary peaks of the Alps. The first ascent of its north face in 1938 is a moment in the history of mountaineering that had a profound impact on the collective imagination. Its north face together with those of the Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses form the famous Alpine trio.
The Mittellegi Ridge permits a superb east-west traverse of the Eiger. It is certainly one of the finest moderately difficult ridge routes in the Alps. We propose a four-day programme for this unmissable journey.
Day 1 and Day 2: Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m)
These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude. They are also an opportunity to develop a real sense of partnership with your guide. If by the end of this period your guide feels that you are not yet ready to tackle to Verte, he or she can guide you towards another objective.
Day 1: Gentle start and meet your guide. South-west couloir of the Aiguilles Marbrées (3535m). Night in Torino Hut.
Day 2: Ascent of Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde (3793m). The view from the summit over the Italian side of Mont Blanc is breathtaking! Descent via normal route.
Day 3: Rest/spare day depending on weather conditions.
Day 4: Ascent to Mittelegi Hut (3355m)
Early morning departure from Chamonix for Grindelwald. Ascent to hut from the Eissmer station (3159m), which we reach via the Jungfrau cog railway. 3 hours walking.
Day 5: Ascent of the Eiger (3967m) via the Mittellegi ridge
We leave the hut in the early morning. The ridge is a long mixed climb with fixed ropes in the more technical sections. There are stunning views over the Bernese Alps along the whole length of the ascent. After summiting we descend via the south-west ridge to rejoin the Jungfraujoch (3454m). We take the train back down to Grindelwald and then return to Chamonix. 10-12 hours walking.
This programme is meant as a guide only. Depending on the abilities of the group and the conditions in the mountains, your mountain guide may alter the route.
DATES 2020 : From the end of June to mid-September.
PRICE 2020: 2815€ per person.
Included in the package:
- IFMGA English speaking mountain guiding service.
- Two half-board in mountain huts (dinner, breakfast and night).
- Lift access as per programme.
- All transfers.
- Personal drinks in huts and other personal expenses (we recommend you bring Euros and Swiss Francs),
- Take out lunches and daily snacks,
- Nights in the Chamonix valley,
- Cost of getting to meeting point (Chamonix),
- Personal technical equipment.
Departure on day 1 is at 8.30am from the Compagnie des Guides in Chamonix.
An appropriate choice of peak is essential for you to properly enjoy your holiday. To get the most out of your trip we recommend you take regular exercise throughout the year and, where necessary, undertake specific training a few months before you leave. Try to avoid last minute training that can lead to injury. Do not to overestimate your abilities and do be aware that the weight of your pack and higher altitudes reduce your usual strength and stamina.
For people in excellent shape.
A solid mountaineering experience and a strong physical shape are required for this climb. Need to master at least climbing grade 4+/5.
Maximum 1 participant per guide.
In terms of group size, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix's guiding policy is one of the strictest in the mountain guiding industry.
Half-board in huts for 2 nights.
Benefit from specials prices with our hotel partners in Chamonix. Ask firstname.lastname@example.org.
Participants must have mountain sports insurance with repatriation cover. We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover. You can take out insurance offering both of these types of cover when you sign up. Participants must also take valid ID with them.
PREPARING FOR THE TRIP
One week before the trip, the mountain guide will be in contact to answer any questions you may have.
We recommend you to pay particular attention to the choice of your equipment. It contributes greatly to the success of your stay. Weight is decisive: you always have to evaluate the ratio weight/comfort, to find the best compromise. In a general way, it is better to pile up several light coats rather than wear one big clothing.
- High Mountain boots : snow-covered, plastic or new generation material (to use semi-rapid crampons).
- Comfortable frameless rucksack (about 35-40 litres)
- Crampons with” anti-stick soles”, ice-axe, harness, helmet,
- A cotton or silk sleeping bag is compulsory. Huts provide blankets.
- Rock climbing shoes
- Belay device + one lockable carabiner
- Breathable t-shirt
- Polar fleece
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Pants (type Gore-Tex)
- Thermal underwear
- Mountain socks
- Wollen hat and cap or bandana, gloves or mittens
- 1.0 or 1.5 quart water bottle
- High-altitude sunglasses, suncream, head lamp and pocket knife
- Personal medical kit ; aspirin, compede and elastic tape, plasters, ear plugs,
- Toilet kit : toothbrush, toothpaste, pre-moistened towlettes, T.P., tissue
- Passport / identity papers + money for drinks in huts
- Camera : be carefull with the batteries