The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true.
The Aiguille Verte is THE legendary peak in the Mont Blanc Massif. The celebrated mountaineer and writer Gaston Rébuffat contributed significantly to this reputation when he said of it: “Before the Verte one is a mountaineer, on the Verte one becomes a ‘Montagnard’ (mountain dweller)”. It is certainly true that there are no easy routes on this peak and each face is a significant challenge.
The south side of the Aiguille Verte is an outstanding snow route that follows the Whymper Couloir for over 700 metres. This is unquestionably one of the most beautiful routes in the massif, and we offer a four-day programme for its ascent.
Day 1 and Day 2 : Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m)
These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude. They are also an opportunity to develop a real sense of partnership with your guide. If by the end of this period your guide feels that you are not yet ready to tackle to Verte, he or she can guide you towards another objective.
Day 1: Gentle start and meet your guide. South-west couloir of the Aiguilles Marbrées (3535m). Night in Torino Hut.
Day 2: Ascent of Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde (3793m). The view from the summit over the Italian side of Mont Blanc is breathtaking! Descent via normal route.
Day 3 : Rest/spare day depending on weather conditions.
Day 4 : Climb up to Couvercle Hut (2687m)
We set off from Le Montenvers (1913m), which we reach by train. We walk up the Mer de Glace, take the Egralets ladders and follow a path to the hut. 3-4 hours of walking.
Day 5: Ascent of Aiguille Verte (4122m) via Whymper Couloir with descent by same route
We head out at around 01:00 in the morning. We cross the Talèfre glacier to reach the start of the couloir. We climb the couloir (45-50º) to the summit in the morning. We descend via the same route including downclimbing and rappels. We return to the hut and from there to Le Montenvers. 10-12 hours walking return trip hut-to-hut.
This programme is meant as a guide only. Depending on the abilities of the group and the conditions in the mountains, your mountain guide may alter the route.
This trip is only proposed on private guiding.
Dates 2020 : From mid April to Mid July.
Price 2020 : 2485€ per person.
Included in the package:
- IFMGA English speaking mountain guiding service,
- Two half-board in mountain huts (dinner, breakfast and night),
- Transfer go & back to Italy (Day 1&2),
- Lift access as per programme,
Not included in the package :
- Personal drinks in huts and other personal expenses (we recommend you bring Euros and Swiss Francs),
- Take out lunches and daily snacks,
- Nights in the Chamonix valley,
- Cost of getting to meeting point (Chamonix),
- Personal technical equipment.
Meeting point : Departure on day 1 is at 8.30am from the Compagnie des Guides in Chamonix.
Ability level : An appropriate choice of peak is essential for you to properly enjoy your holiday. To get the most out of your trip we recommend you take regular exercise throughout the year and, where necessary, undertake specific training a few months before you leave. Try to avoid last minute training that can lead to injury. Do not to overestimate your abilities and do be aware that the weight of your pack and higher altitudes reduce your usual strength and stamina.
For people in excellent shape. Experience in AD+ climbing difficulty and a good experience in cramponning.
Guiding policy : Maximum 1 participant per guide.
In terms of group size, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix's guiding policy is one of the strictest in the mountain guiding industry.
Accomodation : Half-board in huts for 2 nights.
Benefit from specials prices with our hotel partners in Chamonix.
Documentation : Participants must have mountain sports insurance with repatriation cover. We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover. You can take out insurance offering both of these types of cover when you sign up. Participants must also take valid ID with them.
Preparation for the trip : One week before the trip, the mountain guide will be in contact to answer any questions you may have.
We recommend you to pay particular attention to the choice of your equipment. It contributes greatly to the success of your stay. Weight is decisive: you always have to evaluate the ratio weight/comfort, to find the best compromise. In a general way, it is better to pile up several light coats rather than wear one big clothing.
- High Mountain boots : snow-covered, plastic or new generation material (to use semi-rapid crampons).
- Comfortable frameless rucksack (about 35-40 litres)
- Crampons with” anti-stick soles”, ice-axe, harness, helmet,
- A cotton or silk sleeping bag is compulsory. Huts provide blankets.
- Rock climbing shoes
- Belay device + one lockable carabiner
- Breathable t-shirt
- Polar fleece
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Pants (type Gore-Tex)
- Thermal underwear
- Mountain socks
- Wollen hat and cap or bandana, gloves or mittens
- 1.0 or 1.5 quart water bottle
- High-altitude sunglasses, suncream, head lamp and pocket knife
- Personal medical kit ; aspirin, compede and elastic tape, plasters, ear plugs,
- Toilet kit : toothbrush, toothpaste, pre-moistened towlettes, T.P., tissue
- Passport / identity papers + money for drinks in huts
- Camera : be carefull with the batteries