The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true.
Thanks to the purity of its contours and the impressive verticality of its rock walls, the Matterhorn symbolises the ideal mountain that every alpinist dreams of climbing one day. Its first ascent in 1865, despite its tragic outcome (several members of the party, including the Chamonix guide Michel Croz, died on the descent) had a huge impact. Its north face together with those of the Eiger and Grandes Jorasses form the famous Alpine trio.
The Hörnli Ridge forms the normal route on the Matterhorn. This is a magnificent climb, mainly over rock, and at a moderate level of difficulty. We propose a four-day programme for what is without doubt a great mountain journey.
To guarantee optimal conditions, you will be climbing alone with your guide for those four days. This package means you get personalised tips and advice with great flexibility to maximise your chance of success.
Day 1 and Day 2 : Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m)
These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude. They are also an opportunity to develop a real sense of partnership with your guide. If by the end of this period your guide feels that you are not yet ready to tackle to Verte, he or she can guide you towards another objective.
Day 1: Gentle start and meet your guide. South-west couloir of the Aiguilles Marbrées (3535m). Night in Torino Hut.
Day 2: Ascent of Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde (3793m). The view from the summit over the Italian side of Mont Blanc is breathtaking! Descent via normal route.
Day 3 : Rest/spare day depending on weather conditions.
Day 4 : Ascent to Hörnli Hut (3260m)
Leave Zermatt mid-morning. Ascend to the hut from the Schwarzsee station (2583m), which we reach using the lift system. Reconnoitre the first fixed ropes that we will use the following night. 2½ hours walking.
Day 5 : Ascent of Matterhorn via Hörnli Ridge with descent via same route
We leave the hut in the early morning. The Hörnli Ridge is a long route mainly consisting in mixed rock tiers interspersed with steeper sections equipped with fixed ropes. The final section is a 40º snow slope. Descent is via the same route downclimbing and using rappels to reach the hut. We return to Zermatt via the Schwartzsee lift system and continue on to Chamonix. 8-10 hours walking return trip hut-to-hut.
This programme is meant as a guide only. Depending on the abilities of the group and the conditions in the mountains, your mountain guide may alter the route
No collective group for this trip. Only on private guiding.
Dates 2020 : From the end of June to Mid-September.
Price 2020 : 2995€ per person.
Included in the package :
- IFMGA English speaking mountain guiding service,
- Two half-board in mountain huts (dinner, breakfast and night),
- Transfer go & back Day 1&2 - Day 4&5,
- Lift access as per programme,
Not included in the package :
- Personal drinks in huts and other personal expenses (we recommend you bring Euros and Swiss Francs),
- Take out lunches and daily snacks,
- Nights in the Chamonix valley,
- Cost of getting to meeting point (Chamonix),
- Personal technical equipment.
Meeting point : Departure on day 1 is at 8.30am from the Compagnie des Guides in Chamonix.
Ability level : An appropriate choice of peak is essential for you to properly enjoy your holiday. To get the most out of your trip we recommend you take regular exercise throughout the year and, where necessary, undertake specific training a few months before you leave. Try to avoid last minute training that can lead to injury. Do not to overestimate your abilities and do be aware that the weight of your pack and higher altitudes reduce your usual strength and stamina.
For people in excellent shape. A solid mountaineering experience and a strong physical shape are required for this climb. Need to master at least climbing grade 4+.
Guiding policy : Maximum 1 participant per guide.
In terms of group size, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix's guiding policy is one of the strictest in the mountain guiding industry.
Accomodation : Half-board in huts for 2 nights.
Benefit from specials prices with our hotel partners in Chamonix.
Documentation : Participants must have mountain sports insurance with repatriation cover. We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover. You can take out insurance offering both of these types of cover when you sign up. Participants must also take valid ID with them.
Preparing for the trip : One week before the trip, the mountain guide will be in contact to answer any questions you may have.
We recommend you take particular care over you choice of equipment, as it plays a large role in the success of your trip. Weight is critical, and you must always evaluate the weight-to-comfort ratio to find the best compromise.
Weather conditions can be extremely variable: from 20ºC on the approach route to the hut, to -15ºC on the summit (like a cold winter’s day in a ski resort).
Generally speaking, it is better to put on several thin layers than to have one bulky item of warm clothing, and it is vital that you remain dry at all times.
- 35-litre backpack,
- High-altitude mountaineering boots that are not too tight, rentable
- Ice-climbing shoes, rentable
- Gaiters, if needed for your trousers ,
- Telescopic trekking poles, rentable
- Crampons with anti-balling plates; helmet, harness and straight ice axe, rentable
- Bring the technical equipment you have (figure of eight, locking carabiners…).
- Warm hat that can be worn under a helmet,
- Sun hat or cap,
- Neck protection such as a ‘Buff’,
- ‘Micro-fibre’ style long-sleeve base layer,
- ‘Gore Tex’ style shell jacket with hood, rentable
- Down jacket,
- Base layer leggings,
- Durable summer mountaineering trousers (not ski trousers),
- ‘Gore Tex’ style over-trousers, rentable
- Warm specialist walking socks ,
- Lightweight specialist walking socks,
- Ski gloves or good quality mitts,
- Leather or fleece gloves,
- Change of clothes at your discretion
- Category 4 sunglasses
- Ski goggles
- Headtorch plus spare batteries
- Sheet sleeping bag*
- Water bottle (minimum 1.5l) and thermos bottle
- Personalised first aid kit with a minimum of: sun cream, lip balm, cotton buds, blister kit, antisickness medication
- Watertight bag to contain your ID/passport and Euros
Rental: You can rent your equipment with our partners Sanglard Sports & Ravanel & Co, and benefit from special prices.