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Legendary summit Matterhorn

Duration: 5 days
Level:

Level 1: You have never practiced.

Level 2: You have some initial experience.

Level 3: You practice occasionally.

Level 4: You practice regularly.

Level 5: You have a sustained practice.

For more information, contact Pôle Alpinisme :
General information

Thanks to the purity of its contours and the impressive verticality of its rock walls, the Matterhorn symbolises the ideal mountain that every alpinist dreams of climbing one day. Its first ascent in 1865, despite its tragic outcome (several members of the party, including the Chamonix guide Michel Croz, died on the descent) had a huge impact. Its north face together with those of the Eiger and Grandes Jorasses form the famous Alpine trio. The Hörnli Ridge forms the normal route on the Matterhorn. This is a magnificent climb, mainly over rock, and at a moderate level of difficulty. We propose a four-day programme for what is without doubt a great mountain journey. To guarantee optimal conditions, you will be climbing alone with your guide for those four days. This package means you get personalised tips and advice with great flexibility to maximise your chance of success.

This trip is part of a series of programs that we set for you to climb the iconic peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true.

 

Private booking

Private booking is the historical relationship that binds a guide to his/her client. It allows you to be alone, or in a constituted group, with your guide that meets your specific needs. It is undoubtedly the ideal formula to realize your projects because it guarantees you a maximum of comfort. You are free to choose your departure date (depending on the availability of the huts) and the itinerary can be adjusted, according to your specific expectations.

Dates : From the end of June to Mid-September

Price 2024 : 3310€ per person

Included in the package :
- IFMGA English speaking mountain guiding service,
- two half-board in mountain huts (dinner, breakfast and night),
- transfer go & back Day 1&2 - Day 4&5,
- lift access as per programme,

Not included in the package :
- personal drinks in huts and other personal expenses (we recommend you bring Euros and Swiss Francs)
- take out lunches and daily snacks
- nights in the Chamonix valley
- cost of getting to meeting point (Chamonix)
- personal technical equipment
 

Further information

In this section, find all the information about this activity. For further information, please contact our advisor (contact details above).

Meeting point : Departure on day 1 is at 8.30am from the Compagnie des Guides in Chamonix.

Fitness level : Suitable for individuals in excellent physical condition. Participants should be prepared for 10 to 12 hours of physical effort.

Technical level : A solid background in mountaineering, and robust physical fitness are prerequisites for this ascent. Proficiency in climbing, with a minimum grade of 4+, is essential.

Guiding policy : One participant per guide. This guiding policy ensures high-quality guiding services

Accommodation : Half-board in huts for 2 nights.
Benefit from specials prices with our hotel partners in Chamonix.

Documentation : Participants must have mountain sports insurance with repatriation cover. We strongly recommend that this also includes cancellation cover. You can take out insurance when you sign up. Participants must also take valid ID with them.
 

Equipment

We recommend you take particular care over you choice of equipment, as it plays a large role in the success of your trip. Weight is critical, and you must always evaluate the weight-to-comfort ratio to find the best compromise.
 
EQUIPMENT
- 35-litre backpack
- High-altitude mountaineering boots that are not too tight, rentable
- Ice-climbing shoes, rentable
- Gaiters, if needed for your trousers ,
- Telescopic trekking poles, rentable
- Crampons with anti-balling plates; helmet, harness and straight ice axe, rentable
- Bring the technical equipment you have (figure of eight, locking carabiners…).
 
CLOTHING
- Warm hat that can be worn under a helmet,
- Sun hat or cap,
- Neck protection such as a ‘Buff’,
- ‘Micro-fibre’ style long-sleeve base layer,
- Fleece,
- ‘Gore Tex’ style shell jacket with hood, rentable
- Down jacket,
- Base layer leggings,
- Durable summer mountaineering trousers (not ski trousers),
- ‘Gore Tex’ style over-trousers, rentable
- Warm specialist walking socks ,
- Lightweight specialist walking socks,
- Ski gloves or good quality mitts,
- Leather or fleece gloves,
- Change of clothes at your discretion
 
ACCESSORIES
- Category 4 sunglasses
- Ski goggles
- Headtorch plus spare batteries
- Sheet sleeping bag*
- Water bottle (minimum 1.5l) and thermos bottle
- Personalised first aid kit with a minimum of: sun cream, lip balm, cotton buds, blister kit, antisickness medication
- Watertight bag to contain your ID/passport and Euros
 
Our Rental Partners : You can rent your equipment with our rental shops partners and benefit from special price Sanglard Sports, Ravanel & CoConcept Pro Shop
Our Equipment Partners : Millet, Dynastar, Julbo, Grivel & Monnet

 

Itinerary

Day 1

Route from Pointe Helbronner - Night in the Torino Hut (3370m)
Before undertaking the ascent of the Matterhorn, it is essential for your body to acclimate to the altitude. Your guide must also assess your technical skills to ensure they align with the requirements of such a climb. This step also provides the opportunity to make necessary adjustments to fully prepare youExample of route : Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverse (3600m) or Freshfield arete on Tour Ronde (3793m).  Night in Torino Hut. 
 

Day 2

Route from the Torino hut 
This second day will reinforce the essential process of acclimating your body to the altitude while providing you with the opportunity to make any necessary adjustments.
 Example of route : Ascent of the normal route of the Dent du Géant (4,013m), allowing you to climb one of the flagship peaks of the Mont Blanc massif and become acquainted with the use of fixed ropes.
 

Day 3

Rest day 
Rest/spare day depending on weather conditions.
 

Day 4

Ascent to Hörnli Hut (3260m)
Leave Zermatt in the mid-morning. Ascend to the hut from the Schwarzsee station (2583m), reached via the lift system. Familiarize yourself with the first set of fixed ropes that we will use the following night. The walk takes approximately 2½ hours.

 

Day 5

Ascent of Matterhorn via Hörnli Ridge
We leave the hut in the early morning. The Hörnli Ridge is a long route mainly consisting in mixed rock tiers interspersed with steeper sections equipped with fixed ropes. The final section is a 40º snow slope. Descent is via the same route downclimbing and using rappels to reach the hut. We return to Zermatt via the Schwartzsee lift system and continue on to Chamonix. 8-10 hours walking return trip hut-to-hut.

 

Calculate your carbon footprint

Discover the carbon emissions of this activity and add your trip to the meeting point.

CO2 emitted per person for the activity: 179 kg. Learn out more about the footprint calculation of this activity

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